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Stay On Trend With Burnt Orange Hair

Hair trends come and go as the seasons change, but we've found one that will be stocking around, even after the last leaves have fallen this autumn; Burnt Orange hair. Here Lily, the editor of our magazine The Capital Cut, speaks to Acer at our Brighton store, and colour expert Derry from Training Solutions, to find out how to create and maintain this luxurious colour.

This is a rising trend as we're in the colourful autumn months and one that proves popular year-in and year-out around this time. It's not just for pumpkins - all the coolest girls are dying their hair burnt orange this season, to keep up with the trends because it's so versatile and suits so many different skin tones. 

However, depending on your clients base colour, it can take a bit of work to achieve the perfect Burnt Orange shade. Read on to find out how to create this look on a range of base colours and how to maintain the vibrant hues. Achieving super rich, Burnt Orange hair isn't as hard as you think.  

How to get Burnt Orange hair colour 
Top tips from Acer at Brighton: 
Use Faction 8 colour to achieve a burnt orange look. My favourites would be 94 and 8-4 and then you could add -44 for a more intense colour. If you're new to hairdressing, make sure you have bowls/brushes/foam wraps. I love using Procare Foam Wraps and sectioning clips

Top tip from Derry at Training Solutions: 
There are many ways to achieve this, and my preference is to create multi-tonal layers of colour with coppers and rich browns through the hair. One of my fave combinations is NXT 6-34 layered with 7-45 and 6-4. 

How to due brown or black hair orange 
Bleach hair gradually and use L'Oréal bond enforcer to help protect the hair when bleaching. Lift to a about a 7 or 8 and then use purple shampoo or NXT 9.02 Semi-Permanent colour for a clean base. Then follow with Faction8 colour (same as above). Use Platinum Card Technique for dark to light hair. 

If the hair is artificially coloured this will involve a corrective colour process (most likely a series of processes). Providing the hair is of good condition and is compatible, I would always start by removing the colour with NXT colour remover, which is by far the gentlest method of beginning the corrective colour process. Should I need to continue to lighten further then this can be repeated, or a move to cleansing both using bleach. It's vital to work through this in a methodical way and not try to lighten the hair too quickly or make it too light. The NEW NXT TLC range is also great for pre-lighting areas off-scalp, especially as you can add the red pigment to begin to build that warm tone.

What makes it easier or harder to achieve this colour?
Having an even base to build on and hair that is naturally around a level 6 is ideal for this type of colour. Hair that has been lighted too light initially can be difficult to achieve the more 'burnt' effect on as the hair tends to show more of the copper result and will impact on the longevity. 

What do hairdressers need to consider? 
Consider your guest's hair condition and really review the colour history. Colour change should be viewed as a journey and I always encourage guests to embrace the traditional phases as much as the end result. On darker bases, avoid over-lightening the hair - the hair will only need to be lightened to an orange undercoat. 

How to get blonde hair orange? 
I think blonde is one of the most challenging bases to achieve this on, as it can be difficult to strike the balance of pre-colouring the hair, to replace to missing undercoat, but then this 'added' warmth needs to be considered when selecting target shades. More intensive 'orange results' are easier to achieve on this base but have less longevity. 

Burnt Orange Hair care: 
To maintain a strong, vibrant colour, use Goldwell Colour Revive Conditioner in Warm Red. This is great as an after-sell product too. Clients can also use colour shampoos - Wella Colour Brilliance shampoo, conditioner or mask is recommended. 

I always advise a colour protect shampoo and conditioner, while you could also send your clients away with a 'top up colour' to be able to apply when the tone begins to fade. Many colour lines also have coloured shampoos and conditioners that are perfect for this type of work.